I
have to admit that I’m partial to Italian food. You will appreciate, of course,
that the best pizza I ever had was in Italy: a wonderful Margherita pizza we
enjoyed at lunch in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence. Or was it at that
restaurant in Rapallo? So many pizzas, so little time.
The
best way to experience any country is to go with a native. We had this luck in
Liguria. Liliana, a colleague of our former daughter-in-law, took us on a
gustatory tour. In Chiavari we enjoyed farinata, a pizza made with chick-pea
flour. Further west on the French Riviera this is called socca. In Santa
Margherita we had, among other delights, a salad of fresh tomatoes, fresh
mozzarella, and fresh anchovies. I’ve come to love certain ‘iffy’ foods like
escargot and mussels, when I was embarrassed to admit I’d never tried them
before. Not wanting to say that I didn’t like anchovies, I took a bite - heaven!
Those fresh fellows were absolutely delicious!
In
Portofino Liliana knew everyone. She got our boat a berth right at the harbor
master’s dock, and then took us for a tour and a decadent dessert of ice cream
covered with berries and other fruit. In
Vernazza, in the Cinque Terra, we had Ligurian pasta, trofi al pesto, and an
unlabeled bottle of local white wine that was just fabulous.
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Pansotti alla Noce |
My
most memorable meal was in Rapallo. Le Santuario de Nostra Signora di
Montallegro (say that three times fast!) is a beautiful church, a place of
pilgrimage, reached via funivia, a cable car that takes you up a small mountain.
On the way from the car terminus to the church we smelled a wonderful aroma
coming from a hotel along the way. Liliana stopped in and ordered our lunch, to
be made to order for us, for our later return. That lunch is probably the best
one I ever had. The dish was Pansotti alla Noce, and my travel diary says “to
die for!” On handkerchief-like squares of pasta they spread a mixture of chopped
herbs, including borage, and vegetables. The pasta is folded up around the
filling so it stays together in cooking, and there are many layers to each
piece. They are served covered in a sauce of walnuts and cream. The aroma of
that sauce is what had enticed us on our way. The funivia stops service until
two in the afternoon, so we had a long, leisurely lunch. Some wine, some
cappuccino, some dessert. I could have rolled down that mountain on my
own.
So,
back to lasagna. Go on line and check out lasagna and its history. There are
northern versions, mainly using béchamel or white sauces, and southern versions
using tomato based sauces. Basically,
it is sheets of pasta layered with sauce, cheese, perhaps meat, and other
ingredients, and all baked in a dish - a lasanum. Google ‘lasagna’ and you come
up with hundreds of versions. You really
can’t go wrong. Lasagna is on most folks
lists of favorite comfort foods - mine too!